contribution submission criteria.
Manufacturers: New Releases and Items Sent for Review
We welcome news of new products being released. If you have any news or lists of products, please do not hesitate to contact us at Should you wish for a product to be reviewed on this site, you can send the item to the following address:

72nd Scale Review Dept
P.O. Box 688
Richmond, Victoria 3121
Please understand that products will be reviewed only under the following conditions: The product MUST be 1/72, not 1/76 or 1/78, or any other scale. The exception to this would be generic decals or parts which can be accurately used in a variety of scales, such as foliage, brickwork, some human figures, etc. The product will be reviewed with impartiality. If the product lacks quality or accuracy,
it will be criticised. If the product is good, it will earn merit of its own accord. The primary criteria by which the product will be judged on is accuracy.

Photographs we take of kits and figures will show them unpainted with no gaps filled so that the modeller may assess the true nature of the parts in the kit. A product that is reviewed does not necessarily imply that the product will be included in the actual Census. It is a condition of submission that you grant permission to duplicate artwork, including boxart and decals, for the purposes of review on this site, unless you specifically deny such permission in writing sent with the item. Actual decal sheets will be scanned and an image posted to the site such that the modeller will be able to make an accurate assessment of the quality, accuracy and completeness of the decal. No commitment is expressed or implied to complete the review in a set amount of time. Products should be sent 'gratis', and will be returned on request at the sender's expense.

Link to us.
Pick an image from one of these to act as the link button to our site. Save it and upload it to your site, taking note of the name and location you save it to. If you don't want to save one of these images to your web site, you can instead adjust the address of the HTML code to point to the images saved on our site. The locations are described below. Just copy and paste the relevant address into your HTML code:
Copy and insert this HTML code into your page where you would like the link to appear. Customise the address for the location and the name of the image file you have chosen (this address appears after IMG SRC="...)
Modellers: Completed Model Image Criteria
If you have pictures of a model that you have built that you are particularly proud of, or wish to share your experiences with a particular kit, please contact us at: Images submitted for inclusion on this site should conform to the following:
Models should be photographed against a plain background, either black, white, silver, various shades of grey, or the colours below. The best way to achieve this is to use a sheet of art paper or craft cardboard of approx A2 to A0 size laid out in a rounded 'L' shape. Fabric of a fine weave is also very effective. Ensure it is laid out wrinkle free and that the transition from horizontal to vertical is a gentle radius rather than a sharp crease. Velvet is perfect. The model is placed on the flat area and the vertical area behind becomes the backdrop with no creases, so giving a uniform image. When selecting the exposure setting, always take the reading using a sheet of mid grey coloured cardboard, placed where the model would sit on your miniature 'set', rather than the subject itself with its backgound. This is because the light meter will be fooled by strong colours in the background and try and compensate. A black background is read by a lightmeter as being a dark image overall, and the result will be over-exposed. The opposite can happen when a white background is used.

If you wish to depict a scenic background, bear this in mind: you have have gone to a great deal of trouble to recreate a miniature machine; if you now skimp on the quality of the scene you photograph the model in, you will have violated the very principles which you adhered to when building the model. Apply the same care and thoughtfulness to the scene as you did to the model itself, and you will be rewarded with a very satisfying image.

Use 3D objects placed between the model subject and the vertical background plane as a buffer to ensure a smooth visual transition between foreground and backbround. eg Building facades made out of cardboard, and/or actual model trees and bushes. The joinline between the horizontal foreground and vertical background should not be visible in the final image. Items of a scale other than 1/72 can be used in the foreground and background to create an illusion of perspective (if you decide to do this shoot so that the view point is right at ground level or else the final perspective effect will look really weird); however, the subject itself MUST be 1/72.

The background should be generic: a sky with clouds, a distant mountain range, a generic forest, or city skyline...ensure that the shadows, perspective, colours, and scale of the background are consistent with the foreground and your model subject. The most effective way to achieve this is to photograph outdoors, use the real sky, and place cardboard buildings and model trees between the foreground and the sky. When photographing models with a shiny natural metal finish, surround your miniature set with backdrops placed out of camera view that are coloured to prevent unnatural or overly-complicated reflections in your model's finish.

Photograph outdoors using natural light. Use white pieces of paper or cardboard to reflect light into areas on the subject you feel to be too dark, but be sparing, otherwise the lighting will look fake. Shoot with the sun behind you. Overcast light is best, unless you particularly wish to portray a bright sunny day. Do not use fill flash pointed directly at the model; you will ruin the naturally-cast shadows on the ground underneath your model. Avoid using a flash, but if you insist, bounce it so that it appears to be a light source shining from overhead.

If photography outdoors is impossible, place your miniature set under a diffused light canopy made of tracing paper, drafting film or white translucent tissue paper. Shine a strong spotlight or a flash through this translucent canopy and you will get a beautifully diffused light similar to overcast light outdoors.

Use ony one light source if possible, to simulate the sun and simplify shadows. If you have a flash that must be mounted to the camera, do not point it directly at the model. Swivel it upwards so that the light bounces off the ceiling, or you could place a sheet of aluminium foil or white cardboard above, angled in such a way that the flash light bounces down onto the miniature set below. The idea is to simulate the sun, which always shines from above. Use white pieces of cardboard (out of camera view) around the side of the miniature set to reflect light back into darker areas of the model. Use strong white light rather than incandescent light, or else buy film that is colour-balanced for incandescent light.

The Lens:
Use a lens that allows you to get a view of the model that fills the camera frame, and permits a long depth of field. Models are one of the most difficult objects to photograph completely in focus because of their relatively small size.

Ideally use a macro lens that has an 'F-stop' of F22 or smaller (F32, F64, etc). Using such a small F-stop will greatly reduce the amount of light that comes in thru the shutter, but it will give you the greatest possible depth of field, meaning that the whole of your model will be in focus. Use a slow shutter speed and strong lighting to compensate for the small F-stop.

The Camera:
Whatever you like...just one that can mount the kind of lens just described, and that can be mounted on a solid tripod for stability during slow shutter speeds. 35mm SLR is the most popular, although using a medium format camera allows much smaller F-stops to be used.

Please Note:
The final image should be sent as a .BMP, .GIF, or .JPG file of not more than 1024x768 pixels, compressed in ZIP format, and should be sent 'gratis'. By sending an image you agree for that image to be reproduced on the website. We reserve the right to make slight adjustments to the image: eg cropping, resizing, and/or colour-balance adjustment where appropriate. Please include the brand of kit, decals, and aftermarket parts you used, mention any modifications you made, and state the Squadron/Group/Division/Battalion number if applicable. Your name, email address, and nationality will be shown with the image unless you specifically request otherwise.

We reserve the right to reject a submission for any reason, but as a guide, models photographed on real concrete, dirt, gravel, sand or grass will NOT be accepted, due to the inappropriate scale of these backgrounds. Models photographed with distracting backgrounds like 1/1 scale living rooms, garages, workbenches, pets, naked women, or clothes lines will not be accepted. Out of focus images will not be accepted. Very small models photographed held in a human hand to show scale WILL be accepted.

Here are some excellent examples of what we are talking about:
Some more:
To contribute material, email
Sending Census Updates or New Lists
If you have updates or corrections for our existing lists, please do not hesitiate to contact us; we wish to make this Census as comprehensive as possible. Please note the format we use on our pages when sending info. If you would like to contribute new entire lists, please do so, but the list must be compiled to our format as set out below:

There are 8 categories which must appear in the order given:

Conversion Parts
Cast Detail Parts
Etched Detail Parts
Vacform Canopies
Instrument Placards
Paint Masks

the entry format for each is:

Type/Version Description Brand Catalogue No
for example:
F-4E   Hasegawa 00999
M2A2 Bradley armour plates Extratech V72041
for decals the 'Description' is more detailed. The format is: Serial no, Sqn no/name, Grp/Wing no, Aircraft noseart title 'in single quotation marks', Base name, Pilot's name, Colour scheme. Each individual subject/type depicted on the decal sheet is separated by a comma. Subjects from a common squadron or using the same colour scheme are grouped together. Note also that each nation is treated as a completely separate entity. Here is a typical excerpt from our P-51 page to illustrate. Please contact us at
P-51B 36928/YF-I 358 FS 355 FG 'Ole II' Maj W Hovde Aeromaster 72077, Superscale 72726
P-51B Bodney blue nose scheme: 2106872/PE-T 'Patty Ann II' Lt JF Thornell, 36704/PX-H 'Hell-er-Bust' Lt E Heller, 2106449/HO-W 'Princess Elizabeth' Lt W Whisner Aeromaster 72076

720 since inception, since 22/05/03, last updated 22/05/04.

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Prose, illustrations, & website design ? 2003 except where noted. All rights reserved. Boxart and decal artwork shown for the purposes of review only. Copyright should be respected. Seek the permission of the copyright holder before duplicating any artwork. Census compiled from information in the public domain, and accuracy is not guaranteed. Refer here for Census criteria. Please contact us if you discover an error. A product's inclusion in the Census does not guarantee availability; check with merchants for availability. This site is a reference resource, not a merchant. Reviews and recommendations are intended as a guide only: the modeller should inspect the item first-hand and determine for themselves whether the item is fit for their requirements. The right of a modeller to apply product selection criteria other than that specified on this website is acknowledged. We apologize for any site availability difficulties you may encounter. This site is hosted on a 3rd party server; consequently we have no control over, nor can we guarantee, site availability at any particular time.